Trip to Egypt, April 2005

Philae, Notes on the Visit - 2.

In the Morning Light

In an effort to come before the great masses out to the island, we start from our ship early in the morning. But when we reach el-Shellal in time to get on the island by 8, when it´s said they open, we are met with a group of Japanese coming from there. Apparently they have managed a special arrangement... Something to remember for next time.

We make a deal with an owner of a small boat. He takes us out to Philae and waitd for a couple of hours, and then drives us back again for 20 Egyptian pounds each. It´s unreal, these prices.

But how to describe Philae, now that we can see it in full daylight? Even though we are among the first ones there, the open Outer Court quickly fills up with groups gathering in the shade, while their guides give them the history of the island, its buildings and the resuce project which was done in the 70´s. Meanwhile we take a closer look around the Nectanebo kiosk and then walk slowly through the western colonnade, the one where all the column heads have a different design.

Admiring these column heads we approached the First Pylons, crossed the courtyard and entered the Second Courtyard. The Mamissi was immediately to the right and my impression from the night before was that this courtyard was smaller, more closed, than what I had understood from my studies. Entering the Mamissi, we missed lights, it was rather dark there and all the reliefs barely to be seen. Nevertheless it took us a while to go through it all. And as the Hypostyle Hall seemed already full of people, we turned to the left towards the Nilometer and climbed down the narrow steps, noticing the marks carved in the walls, for measuring the water table. Down by the waterline we watned to take a short break, but the ever-present guards waved to us to come back up again. I´m not sure what they were afraid of? Probably the security of the tourists.

Lintel above the endtrance to the Hypostyle Hall

The Hypostyle Hall, once we get in there, also gives the impression of being a tad smaller, more closed, as it were, than what I had understood earlier. The floor, which I noted yesterday, is laid with wooden planks. Somehow this gives it all an almost artificial feeling. It´s too smooth, too comfortable to step on. You lose the feeling of treading on something ancient, which the bare stone slabs would have provided. Again I query the reason.

The rooms flanking the sanctuary are full of beautiful reliefs and I desperately whish we had brought a better camera. Using flash is out of the question. Even if these reliefs have no color which can get damaged, still flash is something you just don´t use inside of these temples. The sanctuary - for a brief moment I stand there quite alone and look around. Then the room is flooded with people and remain so for the rest of our stay. There is no possibility of taking any photo for the crowd fills up the small room. I wait and wait for a gap but the grouops keep coming close upon one another, which tells you something of the intensity of visitors to these ancient sites.

A private observation: How is it possible that people can walk around in all this, talk and laugh loudly - about other things?? - and apparently not understand anything at all of the magnificent and the greatness of all these ancient wonders.. that is beyond me. How can you not be touched? They miss a whole lot.

Through the Hypostyle Hall you can get out to the eastern side of the temple. The small temple to Het-Hert is here, much ruined but still the forecourt is visible and the location overlooking the waters is beautiful. A sign said that the place was closed for construction. Despite this, we found a door on the southern side which threshold it was possible to climb onto and thus get a view into the building.

Wandering around the island you cannot fail to see how dominated it is by the temple of Isis and you also wonder how come Roman structures were more or less squeezed in there, wether or not they fit in at all. With or without them, it must have looked quite amazing in its heyday, when all the buildings were fresh and unharmed, when all the reliefs on the walls were painted in bright colors and the flagstaffs in front of the First Pylons carried banners for the deities, and when whiteclad priests hurried across the courts, in and out of the halls, and the sound of singing and recitals meandered throughout the buildings.

Looking towards the east you can se the foundations from the rescue project still jutting out of the water. This original island was/is much more aligned alongside of Bigeh than the new one where the temples are located now. From the old location, the stairs leading up to the temple at Bigeh were clearly visible. They are not so today, which to some degree takes away the impression of the mythical and religious context of the place.

The Eastern shoreline with the foundations barely seen in the water.

Beyond the old foundations a rocky, fairly steep shoreline can be discerned far off. I don´t know if there existed any settlements in ancient times but somewhat towards the left, a Nubian village with houses painted in light blue and ocher clings to the mountainous side. Who knows how far back the traditions of those people living there today go...

The old, tired temple still stands strong. It exudes magnificence and pride and receives the homage of the masses with dignity and indulgence. The scars on its body bear witness of encroachments from early Christians, Moslems and early explorers, yes even contemporary ones. Still, Egyptians of today seem to understand the value of this Jewel of the Nile. Only the ghost of Masstourism doesn´t trample it all down.

I´ll be back.


More Photos

Philae Sound & Light Show